All of the components minus battery will be from the BBB store, and I’ll be running the 25mm wheels, N10s most likely, the red ESCs that solder directly to the back of the gearmotors, and the default spinner brushless motor on the store as well. motors will be friction fit (with some electrical tape). Haven’t tested this on anything that’s been in a fight, but seems to hold up well enough when driving. Case will be 3d printed in something lightweight, but strength probably won’t matter too much as the spinner is basically armour anyway
I also want to test its balance when I put it together, and I have a test box which I made from some 16mm MDF with a 6mm polycarb lid (screwed in place)
Could you guys give me any advice for the robot?
Thanks a lot,
Ollie.
P.S, so that the blade actually hits things, I’m going to add a small tab on the rear side, so that the body angles downwards.
Looks like Ernie had a baby! My tip is to be careful with switch placement. We had a similarly big weapon on another robot, where the switch was right in the weapon’s path. Think hard about where to put it, since if the motor activates when it’s turned on, you’ll be in for a time. Overall the choice of components looks great (I presume there’s top armour). Not bad for the first time!
Thanks for this! About the switch, I’m probably going to use a battery plug, just so that I can scrap the switch and save a gram or two - actually having said that, this may begin to become a pain with top armour - I’ll think about it. I’m going to go test my electronics so that I don’t lose my fingers when testing lol. I’m using a flysky i6 or something which needs the throttle to be all the way down to start which is pretty phenomenal for my digits. Top armour will probably just be a layer of acetate or something, doesn’t need to be strong, just hold the components in and AWAY from the spinner.
Anyways thanks a lot!
You’ve reminded me that I need to put some holes in for the motor wires.
