Thanks a bunch for this @KJRhys and @Strang_H
I think I thought about doing something like this, but wasn’t sure how to pull it off.
I think this should work really well , and should be significantly easier to pull off, rather than actually modding the motor itself.
Only problem is, that’ll be more weight, and I know I’m already cutting it extemely fine on that regard.
Thanks for the advice!
A new cousin now
Granddaddy of em all is Dont Hug Me I’m Scared. legendary bot. bring it back
I’ll be honest, I was really inspired by the old robot by the name of “Moros”, and by the crude build style of all of the dark forces robots.
Dayum, all of those old bots look so awesome.
Yeah, I saw DHMIS ages ago, looks like it’ll do more damage to the arena than anything else lol
i remember moros from RA2 DSL. that bar was usefull for some builds i remember hahahah. but yeah i am all for dumb ant overheads, they are most fun to watch. my Ermini is also crazy and funny. mightve destroyed some childrens dreams. do note, make sure the print orientation is flat, otherwise you might have 2 bots soon!
and i dont think youll need a pole to self right, probably does fine as is
Will test with & without cone of course - may end up not using it at all to be fair.
What do you mean by flat print orientation exactly?
I’ve printed it literally from base upwards, but then gone and angle’d the entire chassis using the front “nose and” and a bolt in the back (though that will probably change as it’s scratching my table)
Looking forward to obliterating orphans,
Ollie.
You can always increase your stability via your weapon design. Having a larger footprint rather than the longer narrower bar tends to provide better dynamic stability in which you won’t flip as likely. Nick from Team Bloodsport talks about it during his weapon design videos
Would also advise against any direct motor shaft changes because it’s also a live shaft, so the shaft spins with the motor, so anything trying to be off balance (Like those self righting poles) will cause instability
Hope this helps!
Thanks for this - I’m currently whipping up a quick cone in fusion to use instead of replacing the shaft. About the weapon, I don’t really want to spend another £20 quid on China, so I’m going to stick with the current one for this iteration.
If it apexes, then it’ll be funny, and I’m all about that. Having said that, I also want to win some fights too, so I’ll bear this in mind for OS-1.1 or whatever I decide to call it.
Cheers!
Makes sense, but it might also be worth getting it laser cut via a company like Lasered Components or Pegasus Profiles in a group order. Tends be in large part cheaper than CNC from china
Update 21/06/25:
Batteries arrived in the post, so decided to bodge the electronics together and give the weapon a full test (I haven’t bought any orings yet so no driving just yet 
)
Here’s a link to a couple of test videos: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CB-_pG__UBO_RJ41EyNbDnK7AVm69zfy/view?usp=sharing
and showing the throttle: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DRGNKPxEf_X9hHaqEyQooBkAwu56cTn3/view?usp=drive_link
I hope you can see in the second, but as I push the throttle up on my remote, the brushless motor kind of cuts out and then slows down back to the minimum speed.
When I go full throttle, all the way to the top, the same thing happens, and the same happens without the blade (now christened “The Totem”)
Is this an ESC, motor or transmitter problem, and how do I go about fixing it? Unfortunately, I don’t have any replacement motors/ESCs to test against. If this is an ESC / motor problem, then please bear in mind these components are about 2-3 years old, and were just sitting in a cupboard.
Otherwise, I’m so gassed to see it spinning - now onto the drive system, more printing & finishing up the electronics!
Can’t wait until, ORCS or infosec (sorry, unfortunately MITE is a little far from me - Google maps says 5hrs by train 
) Is anyone else planning to go to any of these events?
Cheers guys,
Ollie
P.S how the heck do I sign up for Infosec? I can’t find a link for a google form anywhere lol
Hi guys, just another quick question (also please see post above, as I’m not sure what to do about this issue):
Is this a valid weapon bar? (in case its not clear, this is a threaded rod with a wing nut one end and an end cap nut on the other, screwed through my weapon and chassis)
Cheers guys,
Ollie.
As long as it stops the weapon spinning it’s valid! that looks more than enough. I’d make it so you drop the bolt in from the top though so you don’t have to pick up the live and dangerous robot in order to put the locking bar in
thanks a bunch - you mean spinning when powered by the motor right?
When or when not powered. Of course, you can always remove it when you’re working on the robot itself, but if you’re away from the robot, you gotta put it in.
And about this issue - could someone give me some advice here?
I also did some testing of the drive chain with the weapon, which was to say, interesting. I am extremely happy with how it drives, and how the weapon works on its own. However, when paired together, the robot is extremely unstable, and completely ripped off the top of the bushless motor when taking at hit and it gyros like mad at the slightest turn.
I imagine this is due to the stupid physics of the robot over everything else (50g bar, spinning at a slight angle). To compensate, I’m going to try and make it as horizontal as possible, and use really tiny wheels, but this may or may not work.
If this ends up being totally catastrophic, I might just go and convert it into a bristle shuffler, like depth charge.
Having said that, the entire goal of the robot was to maximise damage, to the opponent, the arena and to itself.
Anyways, if anyone else has suggestions, please let me know
Cheers,
Ollie
My suggestion would be don’t say you’re intending to damage the arena on the forum of people that own and have to maintain one of said arenas… 
The guys at NHRL seem to love it when Depth Charge almost commits mass murder haha
NHRL is run by a billionaire not three ordinary humans from Bristol 
That’s it, spoil everyone’s fun 
As someone slowly working on building an arena, it’s one of those things I know I’ll have to deal with, but if I have to put pillows round the edge to protect it from this spinner I will!
Going to have to design an anti pillow-entanglement weapon then 
Have been away for a while and have been focused on other things, but here is the latest build update:
We’re still looking very rough and prototypey, but that’s fine.
What isn’t fine, is that I’m sitting 8 grams overweight, which means that I need to (unfortunately) take some mass off the spinner. Sadly I don’t have the means to accurately do this myself so I am going to have to design a new one.
About spinners for antweights, would using the same spinner design (#45 steel from JLCCNC whatever that is) and making it about 2-2.5mm thick be viable - as in would you say it is strong enough for antweight hits?
If not, then I will definitely be redesigning, and I have some design constraints. I can only really afford to make one spinner, so it’s going to have to be designed for all-rounding. I watched a bunch of the bloodsport weapon blade design videos, but I’m still unsure as what to go for. I ideally need something that counters the antweight meta of pushers & flippers, but also be somewhat resistant to verts. Can anyone give me a general shape for which to base my spinner off?
Cheers,
Ollie.
