Taps Mic is this thing on, first post here feel free to flame any mistakes you can see Im sure there wont be a shortage, after a little wedge bot i decided to take on my first tombstone replica which I have decided to name Cortex.
Initially I did go for a simple frame out of PLA and this did run but of course PLA is not ideal and the frame being one part took an insane amount of support material
All internals bar the lipo have been purchased from BBB and Im pleased to say they work wonderfully so far only problem is my lack of soldering prowess.
Thats it so far if anyone has actually bothered reading thank you!!! and as ive said already any suggestions are certainly welcome
Thats looking good for a second bot! I look forward to seeing it in the arena
I do have a few suggestions, just to save you from learning these things the hard way:
Your weapon frame looks quite thin. You might find it flexes on impact and so that your weapon hits your chassis. You do have a fair bit of clearance though, so it might be fine.
It looks like you’re using solid wire for your electronics, which is prone to snapping when the bot gets shaken about. Stranded wire is much more robust
If you drill a hole either side of the motors and loop a cable tie over them it holds them in place nicely
I’d recommend insulating your electronics more thoroughly. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve had an ant break due to a short circuit
Will certainly take these points into account especially the electronic points my heart has been broken many a time already this should be one heck of a journey
Been a few days and progress has been made (let me know if updates like these aren’t worthy of a post btw).
First I have committed plagiarism and tried a TPU hub as the ones from the shop are great but I wanted to save some weight and they slide in way easier I do know its unconventional so let me know if this is a big no no.
Motor hubs have also been made and they should do the job with some hot glue on the underside of the base although future versions will be fixed via screw.
To start since last time I have remade the chassis to be a bit shorter otherwise the ground clearance wouldn’t suffice for the wheels which are now powered by N10’s which are quite zippy and nice to control.
Next is improvements on the weapon frame as I one purchased a filament dryer which has worked a treat for my nylon frames which are also now 100% infill rather than 20% to reduce vibrations from the weapon which at this point were extreme at 40% we were doing donuts. A slight modification was made to the bottom frame to prevent screws contacting the floor thus reducing the gyroscopic shenanigans further.
Its also worth noting i shortened the weapon frame and this weapon in exchange for a more modular approach to weapon selection, as pictured with this weapon hub which spun our now 100% infill pla+ bar although Ive yet to weapon harden my motor
Through weapon testing (behind a polycarb shield mind you ) I did manage to throw an old prototype chassis approx 2 meters and split others in two mind you these were all pla+ when it came to tpu no such luck no matter what i tried in terms of actual damage although Ive a potential ace up my sleeve in the future.
Future improvements for this project include an anti tpu bar and dedicated switch location and a locking bar of course for when i eventually get to the uk (it will happen one day i swear)
If you have made it this far thanks for reading and once again comments on the rights and wrongs are hugely appreciated, next on the list after this a homage to my favorite uk bot who may or may not be a front hinge 2 wheel cheese looking flipper
TPU hubs aren’t all that unusual, just bear in mind that with the materials ability to stretch you might find the motors slip in the dholes under heavy loads.
Undersize the D holes and/or stick a dab of super glue on your shafts
