Locking Bars - Don't let them lock you out of competition

Locking bars.

Whatever class you’re in now, you can’t escape them. Over the years, we’ve seen some good ones and some less good ones… So let’s share some ideas to make sure we’re all on top of our game.


1. What is a locking bar, and why?

Put simply, a locking bar is a device to prevent movement of your weapon.
This should be easily installable and easily removable, with no risk of slipping off (not friction based).

We have these to prevent our robots from performing actions that could be dangerous to humans - examples could include a robot accidentally trying to spin up the moment you power it on, or accidentally leaving a robot powered on and paired on your desk while at the arena with another robot (this was scary).

To quote our beetleweight rules…

1.2 Dedicated Locking Bars: Any moving weapon requires a locking bar that completely stops motion. The locking bar must be marked as such with a tag or tape, and not used for any other purpose than locking your robot. Steel split pins are a great option and can easily be marked or have a keyring added. A clamp is not permitted. The locking bar must not be loose. The locking location on the robot must be easily visible for the arena marshal.

While the rule on which bots need locking bars varies from weightclass to weightclass (or rather, from antweight to everything else), and there may be a few variances between event organisers (check the rules wherever you’re competing!) the above should ring true for all locking bars. As such, the below tips should also apply!


2. What your locking bar should do

A locking bar should always be kept in the robot unless it is in the arena

It should only be removed when the robot is powered on and ready to fight.
Therefore, tools you plan on using are not locking bars.
Yes, you could use an old hex key or something, providing it is marked.

A locking bar should be strong enough to stop your weapon.

If you were to have a pneumatic robot, that means the bar should be able to take the full force of the ram firing without the weapon moving. Yes, this would cause issues further into the robots systems. No, this is not negotiable.

A locking bar should be well fitted.

If your locking bar could fall out when the robot is tilted or jiggled, it’s not an ideal locking bar - take for example if a spinner had stopped working across the arena upside down, covering it’s link. The marshall would likely want to lock the weapon before they move it at all. If the bar fell out while inverting the robot, this is bad.
Similarly, friction based locks like clamps are not permitted due to the possibility of the friction not being enough or the robot throwing the lock.

There are lots of edge cases.

If in doubt, contact your event organiser.

In some situations, a lock block is accepted.
For drums and beaters, it may be more practical to have a ‘lock block’, which limits rotation by filling the space between the weapon and the chassis.
image

Saws also may have a cover instead of a locking bar where it is deemed unsafe to drill the saw blade


Here on Enchanter, you can see the guard is placed around the whole saw and is itself secured to the robot.
A few posts down you can see an excellent example of a non-typical locking bar on a lifter from Rob’s robot Boom Zoom. There are so many ways to do a locking bar, just make sure you check with your EO if you are doing something out of the ordinary.


3. My Top Tips

Make your locking bar visually distinct!

Paint it or add a keyring of some sort, so that it can be traced back to you. Marking your locking bar is part of the rules so you may as well make sure it’s a unique one.

Don’t make it an afterthought!

Designing a locking bar into your system makes life much easier down the line.

Make it from something readily available!

This is the biggest piece of advice I can give! Instantly you don’t have to worry about running foul of using tools or similar. I’m a big fan of using split pins/cotter pins on my beetleweight


Though you may find other useful non-tools items. I’ve also used stainless steel bar like this

And at these thicknesses, it’s incredibly easy to bend and make a more distinct shape, even adding a loop onto the end. For antweights, something like this may well be an elegant solution.


ANYHOW.
Please do add to this thread with other thoughts and ideas, I think as antweights join the locking bar club it’s worth having a resource like this to give people a starting point. Please do correct me if I should make any changes above
<3

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If you need a more heavy duty locking bar, you can drill a slightly undersize hole in a block of HDPE and press in a steel bar with a vice

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If you’re having trouble fitting a locking bar into your design, don’t be afraid to get creative with the shape!

Boom Zoom’s locking bar is a 1mm alu plate that slides under 2 slightly raised bolts to secure the lifter. The handle is an offcut of HDPE secured with woodscrews.

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Fantastic thread Craig, I can think of a couple of comments that might be useful!

  1. If you’re using a hole in the frame, make sure there’s 2 concentric holes for the bar to go through. This makes it nice and secure, if you just have the one hole your locking bar will slop around.


A pair of holes as shown here will give you a nice secure locking bar

  1. If you have a robot that is invertible, or difficult to handle upside down, then have a consider of how you’d use the locking bar when it’s overturned. An extreme example would be Vega, it’s a shell spinner so it has a definite right-way-up. Hence most comps don’t require it to have a link in the base for deactivating if upside-down. But if it’s overturned there simply isn’t a place to grab it and flip it over to get the link out that is safe.
    We got around this by putting a hole in the base of the machine, so the locking bar passes through the shell as well as the frame’s top and bottom. The bar actually goes right the way through to the floor on Vega. This means if it’s upside down, then the locking bar can go in from the bottom and still lock the shell, allowing Vega to be overturned and the link removed.
    If your robot is tricky to handle or can run both ways up (covering the obvious locking bar placement) then have a think about what you can do to make the bar accessible.


The hole beside the weapon motor is the upper locking bar hole in Vega 1. Next, you’ll see the same chassis from underneath…


… and the matching underside hole is there too. The locking bar can hence go in from either orientation


A section of the CAD showing this, note the bar goes right through the top and bottom panels and out the bottom. This allows it to be inserted from upside down


You probably don’t need quite such an oversized locking bar…

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Amazing additions, thanks all!!