Hi, I’ve build a few ‘robots’ such as simple lifters etc but I’ve wanted to build a hammersaw. Obviously due to weight I’d use the malenki but wondered if it could do it without overstressing and burning out. I see it has the two motor outputs and two extra pads for servos, but would it be happy doing it? The arm would be an n10 motor on a geardrive
That wouldn’t be overstressing it, it’s designed to run those things in parallel 
Essentially if the stall current of the motor is below the peak of the Malenki (which is 1.8A) you’ll be fine so an N10 (~1A stall currnent) for the arm is ideal and what a lot of people use. Note: it’s connected on the “weapon motor” output next to the drive motor outputs:
You’d use the servo weapon pad to control a brushless ESC for the hammer saw:
1 Like
Though, make sure to wire the brushless esc’s other wires to the wires coming off the switch, as Malenkis are unreliable when handling output with brushless motors.
if im understanding right, I"ve never had issues with soldering the brushless ESC wires directly to the PWR slots on the malenki, ive been running Somatic Damage that way for 4 events now and i’ve never had it fail on me.
Unless thats a thing exclusively for hammersaws i see no issue with wiring it that way
2 Likes
Yes I don’t think that’s a reported issue with malenkis - I would double check your solder joints
Those extra power pads are there for this kind of use case.
2 Likes
It’s not me who’s having the problem, may have been a misconception by Dave (Team Hell) who was wiring the thing.
1 Like
might be a problem with your specific malenki perhaps, unsure whay could’ve caused such a thing though… ive never had any issues with it personally (thank god, as they make my life a million times easier)
Amazing, thankyou very much!
Hey mate, I’ve built a hammersaw and I found if you can get weight for it, run 3s and malenki hv. It makes your hits so much bigger and more damaging, obv mine is a shuffler so I get a bit more weight to play with. If not, yeah malenki should be ok
2 Likes
I’ve seen this posted around, looks incredible! Is the arm printed?
1 Like
Yes, it’s basically solid overture super pla plus, but I’m planning to switch to 64d or 95a tpu with 2mm piano wire running through to prevent snapping when hitting the floor too much ( this is because I have a massive disc)
1 Like
I run a 4mm 95A TPU arm on my hammersaw, it works very well. In the past I ran a PLA+ arm, but on a dry swing at max speed, hitting the floor, the arm shattered. While TPU arms may sound floppy at first, they are rigid in the direction you need rigidity for in a hammersaw, and won’t ever snap
Yeah this was my logic, didn’t want to have it shatter on an impact but haven’t really played around with tpu enough to see how rigid it can become
64d is your best bet, it’s much harder than 95a.