Anyhow as said previously more cad to come, possibly today and goodbye!
I have kept the rough layout of the internals, with a bit of movement to allow better access to the switch and lower down drive motors.
I am going to purchase 2mm foam rubber and glue it to the underside of the legs for grip to allow it to stay still while spinning up along with switching to some 100rmp N20s I accidentally bought in order to stay stable on the ground even if it will significantly slow the bot down.
The weapon assembly is at a 10 degree angle, leading to the front end being only 2cm off the ground, allowing it to hit most robots. I have kept the adapter from the original design However if I find it too weak in testing I will have one cut from lasered which will directly bolt onto the motor.
The top plate is going to be cut from 1mm polycarbonate, with 2mm diameter holes for screws.
Anyhow, any advice or criticism is appreciated, and more updates to come.
Apologies for the lack of updates, I have been focusing on my other robot, sir googly, and school recently.
Anyhow enjoy some pictures of the weapon now tightly bolted to the motor, which I finally managed to get to correctly attach to the angled holder. As for the shuffler mechanism, I am currently dealing with some clearance issues but those are easy to deal with
The weapon hub needs to be made around 2mm taller to avoid the ends of the screws holding the weapon to the hub from scraping the polycarbonate top plate I am going to cut.
Speaking of, is it good to cut holes in polycarbonate with a drill, or would that damage it?
Well that’s all, advice or criticism are both appreciated see you all soon!
Edit: the end of the blade will be around 18mm off the ground, the surface it is on is not at all flat
You can drill polycarbonate fine, though sometimes an RC car body reamer gets you a nicer hole. While mostly irrelevant for antweight thicknesses, always worth making sure it’s a smooth hole so kiss it with a countersink or buff it with sandpaper if large enough to stop cracks forming from or through the hole. This isn’t hugely an issue below ~4mm
What will ruin your polycarbonate day is super glue or loctire of any kind getting on it. Basically any glue other than “hot” or a specialist PC glue is a no go. Brittle fracture.
Looking epic! It might be one of the scariest antweights I’ve ever seen! I saw you’re signed up for Orcs so I hope you do some damage!
That’s one mean machine. I can see why it’s used on US antweights, that spinner is enormous, and according to the kinetic energy calculator could run at the rather sluggish pace of around 2/3 of the speed of sound. Tip speed limits are a thing for a reason, I suppose.
This thing is completely bonkers! I think you know you’ve done a great job of a first spinner when the tip speed is faster than a spitfire plane! Can’t wait to see how this thing does when it competes!
So uhhhhh, long time no see!
For the past while I took a step back from superior violence due to my other bots being far more feasible to be constructed and probably more fun to drive. Along with this my ability to use cad was not as good as it is now, so the previous designs were not the best.
Also, then I didn’t have a test box, so wasn’t able to do any testing of it spun up. I hope to be able to show its first spin up test soon-ish!
What has changed since then:
Firstly, I though far longer and harder about the shuffling mechanism and took some inspiration from this video by broken link robotics where he builds a shuffling ring spinner with an 82g titanium weapon. Now my shuffle pods will have 3 legs per side and each leg will have cleats to attain grip on the floor as pictured here:
The slant originally was obtained by angling the motor mount, but it was a massive hassle to print, design and modify, so now the entire bot slants with the shuffle legs.
secondly, I have ditched the whole building in the third dimension shtick in exchange for what I always end up doing; flatpacking my components
This allows for easy cable management and due to all my components being 10mm tall is quite compact.
Thirdly, I have branched out from the basic BE1806 motor found on the BBB store, now using a GTS-V2 1506, which saves on weight, space and makes mounting easier due to not needing a 5mm shaft adapter. It allows for a higher, 4300KV, making my max theoretical tip-speed now a whopping 592 Miles per hour. Why? Because bigger number better, and the addition of a tip speed limit has given me a number to reach. Speaking of the tip-speed, I discovered I had mis-measured the blade and instead of it being 160mm it is actually 140mm, meaning it does not fully cover the rear, and leaving room for a potential self righter if there is the weight by the end.
Fourth, I switched from heatset inserts to self tapping screws because I am lazy and in my experience, the inserts just rip out or some part of the frame breaks and I have to redo the inserts, making self tapping screws faster and more convenient.
And finally, I am switching from PLA+ to Prusament PETG for increased strength and durability
I intend on bringing it to the Bristol event in march 22nd due to the reduced size and number of pits, and from there bringing it to ORCS 8, 9 and 10
Anyhow - enjoy some of the full cad:
front on
Looks like a distinct improvement!
Is there any form of bearing or bushing in the walking cams? Looks like a lot of friction if not.
Big surprise you’re switching to PETG, seems like a bit of a downgrade to me. Way more prone to brittle fracture though I’m not familiar with that exact brand. PLA-ST would get my vote over PETG.
