Harry's Beetles

MotherLoader T34 has been cracked open for the first time in a little over a year since brawl. I was purposely not touching it primarily so I wouldn’t get distracted and talk myself into building another one of the damned things but also because I believed it to be in a working state.

My intention was to just chuck it at whiteboards even I was feeling masochistic. It turned on and moved for sure but it was sadly far from working.

Worryingly the sheer shock of the beating Andy dished out had knocked the endcaps off the motor. The brushes were just about still on the com but it was barely holding on.

Both sides! While unexpected this tells me it’s not a fluke and it will happen again. My initial instinct was to pull 5mm out of the width each side to squish the motor up against the central axe bulkheads. But I’m actually a little tight on space - especially if I make myself a little gear cover to reduce the pinch points. I think I’m going to make a little brace that retains the motor with tie rods and heat shrink/epoxy the endcap.

Naturally this wasn’t the only problem. The axe was working fine when fired but had evolved itself a 6 pointed clutch (the intermediate nylon gear) and the output gear-cum-axeshaft has a nasty split.

So yes. I tracked the axes system slop to this part of the transmission. I suspected the pins driving the 12mm RC car hexes to have sheared or just plain simple grub screws slipping but it was actually the nylon gear having enough electricity to deform and round out.

I put this down to the properties of the material not playing nicely with the thin (& therefore pliant) geometry of the gear. If the gear was larger diameter or the hex bore smaller I may have had better luck. Perhaps PLA or ABS would be good as a slip on replacement? Considering my options. It’s a relatively easy problem to solve, just a question as to how much work I wish to put in.

Forks, removed completely as they were rubbish. I’m allowing myself a new wedge in 8mm (as I need to get some for Hard Nips) and a new baseplate. I’ll be keeping as much of the chassis as I can. I think I can justify a new rear but other than that everything is kept. Wiring tidied as its not up to scratch.

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Is that a standard pitch gear? I’ve had good luck buying aliexpress gears, it might be worth finding one made from brass or steel and drilling that for drive pins and grub screw(s) instead. I don’t think there’s many plastics that can deal with those forces in a gear so small. SLS nylon, maybe? I just ordered some SLS nylon gearbox housings from JLCPCB and I’m very impressed.

It is standard, I have considered trying to get a length of gear stock or making my own from delrin or aluminum. That’s quite intensive for a problem that’s not quite there yet.

To be fair for the effort of that I could probably just drop to like a 10mm hex drive and keep an FDM nylon gear. If I can help it I don’t want to put a grub screw on this sized shaft at this stage of the reduction.

PLA ST feels like the best material to try. Hard enough to not deflect. I haven’t touched modern gen SLS stuff. My only experience was SLS nylon from shapeways which feels like it would suffer immediate brittle fracture.

I tried PLA CF for some gears recently and it seemed ok. Pretty stiff and hard compared to regular PLA. PLA-ST is tough but pretty soft, I’ve had it round out on D shafts although that was only in ants.

FWIW I’m very impressed by the JLC SLS nylon. Really good detail, well fused, and decently flexible. I have seen other similar looking and feeling nylon prints abused with hammers and the like and it’s extremely robust.

Also, my little gearbox housings were a dollar each ($7 for the stainless ones). Maybe worth chucking some on an order if you’re making one.

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I can brutalize the FDM nylon with a hammer too. The strength and flexibility is what has caused it to be unsuitable for this particular part and why I’m leaning towards something stiffer. I feel like SLS nylon is more of the same.

Stainless though, that’s pretty attractive to try out as a like for like part. If you do more I’m absolutely interested in chucking a few bits in for gits and shigs.

My lowest hanging fruit has been plucked. Two ABS trinkets and some M3 hardware has gently cupped the rear of the motor.

It’s a universal cure for “the back of the motor fell off”. This fits in exactly the same pocket with the existing sizes so there is no chassis surgery required.

As mentioned in passing I’ve tidied my electronics away and just hidden them in a project box. As I no longer need these panel mount XT30’s for removable links they just got jammed onto the side so I have a neat little unit. It’s almost exactly the same size as the battery which rather does help for neatness and positioning. I do want to keep the battery opposing the axe gearing as it otherwise shifts a lot of weight onto one side of the robot.

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I’d actually forgotten about the stainless parts until I posted the image, that does make more sense. I’ll shoot a message your way next time I put in an order, already discovering rev2-worthy bugs on the PCBs I ordered…

So the rear has been redrawn. I was on the fence about replacing it but I had enough improvements to make it worth it. Those with laser focused eyes and scalpel like deduction skills may have been able to tell that I have swapped to a switch over the link - though I have kept the dual power lights. The holes for mounting the lid and baseplate have had some material added to them to reduce the insert based bulging without having to rejig the back end for a thicker panel (it’s already partially overlapping with the motors which sit in a pocket) Other than that, everything else is the same with the limit switch mounting unchanged.

Baseplate slopped out of some 2mm titanium and it has beefed up the robot for sure. I now remember why I don’t bother going with metal much on my beetles as it has added a noticeable heft. I think it will even out okay as I have cut a fair amount here and there. I won’t be underweight, put it that way. I may swap it to 1.5 or 1mm if push comes to shove.

The shoulderbolts have been ditched and replaced with a little bit of 8mm tube. It’s 6mm bore so a quick ream and it’s clearance for an M6. The reason for this change is so I can remove the heads of the bolts sticking out and getting dinked by spinners. I could have recut the armour so it has a counterbore and use a shorter shoulder but that would involve buying more 10mm HDPE to recut the pannels and chuck perfectly usable ones, buy a suitable bit to put the counterbore in and 4 new shoulderbolts vs a £3 tube and cutting it to length.

The sleeves are still partially supported by the armour but don’t hold themselves in tension against it. They just get that extra bit of axial support.

Just in case I wasn’t totally clear with what I meant about any of this. Also, you can take note of the sorry state of the pulley flanges. As they are 2 part to avoid coating them in support requiring clean-up post printing one of the parts is just a flat 1.5mm disc. These bore the brunt of the assault and have pretty much all failed in the same way. I’m looking to change these to lasercut plastic sheet, HDPE would be my first choice but delrin or nylon is probably easier to source.

Certainly looking cleaner with the electronics box and the sturdier baseplate. That box will be mounted to the baseplate with a couple M3’s and there should be a little printed widget to hold the battery where it should be. I’ve rolled back the armour requirements again so I’m planning 6mm HDPE. With the healthy angle it should be enough.

With a rough draft print of the back in full view. Stringy and slightly warped but it’s helped prove a point. I’ll probably use it to cut out the wibbles on the baseplate.

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You may notice popping up in the background of pictures and mentioned in passing was the reimagining of Klaus, the other other beetle. I liked the frantic little hammer saw it used to be. I redrafted it a few times trying to figure out what I wanted. One such idea was a 4 bar punching saw which lately proved very effective on a recent build on here. I would have done it half cocked so it’s probably best I abandoned that particular ship.

Not the prettiest but far from the ugliest duckling here! This chassis started life as a MotherLoader rejigging where I simplified my drive train with ex Data Breach fingetech mega-ultra-uber-sparks. Generic 24mm planetary & 1806 combination but they’re super simple and just dropped in to what I wanted to do.

I wanted to do something new and interesting so it slowly morphed into a spiritual successor to Klaus. I bought one of those amazingly cheap and rubbish handheld grinders from AliExpress for pocket change and split it out to get the saw adaptor. As they are 550 based they’re a direct fit for an 1/8" shaft which makes cheap 28mm outrunners prime candidates to directly drive the saw.

I initially wanted to use a servo for simplicities sake but I couldn’t get it to fit nicely with my criteria so I got real weird with it. This nugget is a tiny drone motor jammed onto a 22mm rotalink which then drives a worm gear and THEN a straight spur stage. I needed a lot of reduction in a small space and it actually works pretty well.

The arm has the speed controller trucked inside it for space, likewise the drive ESC’s are located in pockets on the front portion of the chassis. The gears are just RC pinions yet again because it’s so simple and cheap. They run on 5mm shafts (shoulder bolts) which in turn run on bronze bushings.

Hopefully it’s clear how it works. The centre of this robot is very busy.

That’s the saw mechanism pretty much nailed down. It didn’t change much from this point onward. I then did nothing with the design for a couple months while I had other things on my mind. I ran into a little bump in the road. I simply couldn’t produce the chassis the way I would like to.

Designing it as a single part it was a long print. Especially with the settings I run to get a nice strong print in nylon it was over 24 hours and my long suffering life partner has a long standing “no printing overnight” rule. I could pause it but it is 50/50 on it leaving a weak layer join or shifting very slightly.

The simplest solution was the best and I just chopped the chassis into three and tried to make it as seamless as possible.

It interlocks together and is retained with M3 and heat set inserts. Perhaps a little small for a beetle but the baseplate and lid will be sharing that load.

I am rather proud of the front joins. I didn’t want to lose the nice sweeping radius on the bulkheads. Not wishing to waffle you much and spam pictures of the same subjects at slightly different angles.

At this point I began the rather challenging task of wiring the blasted thing. Whoever designed it was a sadist, a moron and an all round sod. Having to grease up my grotesque sausage fingers to even have a chance of slipping in and routing things. The twin batteries was amusing to design but it’s actually very annoying to get them plugged in. I thought I gave myself a gaping cavern to run the power side but reality had other plans.

It’s all there and working though, with the Fingetech screw switch in place. It’s just two repeat AM32 escs and one BBB 20a for the weapon arm. The saw is run off a 2212 1400kv (£3.50, consumable) and a blheli 40a long 'n thin controller.

The tracks are nothing special save for being orange. Same 30a polyurethane tread with TPE core as ML but shorter. It drives extremely smoothly though is far too fast for me.

I want to get the chassis printed up for real and cut a base & lid out of carbon fibre. I planned to lasercut and fold the wedge out of aluminum or steel but I think it might just have to be 6mm HDPE I can hit with a router temple as per usual.

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After catching a few strays in @Strang_H’s excellent development post for his plucky crusher I reluctantly dug Nard Hips out of the boot of my car and downloaded Solidworks again so I could mash keys and finally try and finish my beetle

It hasn’t been entirely unloved. it is still in a janky half finished chassis state where it’s not actually anywhere close to being complete but it holds itself together enough to be classed as functional. No outside armour, baseplates and the like are structural as its very much a core chassis robot so they have been noticeably absent.

The last time the physical robot got touched was as a bit of a voltage experiment in line with the BBB esc’s supporting higher voltages. The repeat still limits me from going 8s which would be funny but still lets me go walls to the ball with 6s. I made a really horrible 6s pack from two of the original MotherLoader 4s packs which each had a puffed or dead cell and suffered internal tab disintegration. One cell is only charging to about 3.1v but the rest seem moderately healthy for a scabby bench test.

I am quite partial to the performance lick from the INCREEZD VYOLTIGE and I figure it pushes the claw to some higher heights. The current limiting should save it from buying up too many properties in Burnout City but will let it rent suitable accommodation in the charming nearby hamlet of Performance.

I’m planning to buy a 380mah 90c 6s and fly relatively close to the sun as nothing on Nips is too bad for constant draw. I can fit a 530mah for an extra 10g, £20 and 8mm on the length if push comes to shove.

As I now spend between 50 and 60 thousand hours a week in inventor the drop back to SW was slightly jarring but I quickly remembered how I like the editing and sketching in assemblies (take several notes Autodesk!) Anyway, it now has An Snout which was always completely missing from everything so far.

I went back and forth on the crushpad designs and This is the one I am happiest with. Forks featured in a few napkin doodles but they just aren’t really me. What I mean by this, of course, Is that I suck at designing and using them due to some fundamental misunderstanding of the concept.

It is designed to flex down into the floor with minimal pressure and has a little pocket for a magnet to sit inside. I doubt its going to win head to head with a ~100mm long hardox spike but I think it will be scoopy and scrapey enough for most use cases.

I’m on the fence if its going to be TPU or nylon. I think one of each and see how I go is wise. It hooks under the HDPE front armour plating and is through bolted with 3 M4’s and halfnuts. ABS prototype is chugging away as I type. I am hopefully going to raid the offcuts bin of this really cool plastics place my company subs work out too. He has a tonne (genuinely) of PE500 and some 1000 so I am hoping to snag a little 4-6mm for this and to make a wedge for ML-T34-85

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The stance on this thing has a charm all of its own, part of the reason I wanted to build a crusher is because of designs like this and Tom’s Griffin II design log (sadly lost, bring it back Tom!) - I am very keen to see this in the arena. 380 on 6S sounds doable, with a much less efficient mechanism on 660 4S I drained about 50-60% of the pack on the fight where it regularly crushed - vibes based assessment tells me you should be reet

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I ran 380mAh 4s in AntiThesis at Burgh, only used about 50% in a full 2 min fight. Should do you fine

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Bonjour!

I took too long and did too much in between forum posts so the timeline of what I did where is lost entirely so I’m rewriting history to make myself look as good as possible. Standard stuff then.

One of the tough points with Nips was armour. I’d designed several printed blobs which technically fulfilled the brief but lacked flair. They also tended towards dense, which in a weight sensitive robot was No Bueno. I decided to actually make something with my hands LIKE A CAVEMAN and plopped out some strips of 6mm UMWPE that was formerly MotherLoader wedge material - thrifty!

Slight jump as I drew the rest of the owl a bit here. Let me fill in the blanks. The polycarbonate was jettisoned for two main reasons, weight and holes being really obviously in the wrong place due to working off an older bulkhead style. It’s been replaced with 3mm HDPE which wraps around the front in quite an attractive way if I do say so myself.

If you’re normal then you’ll be thinking that’s a little thin for a Beetle, let alone a full combat class beetle and you’d be absolutely correct. It’s about half as much as I’d realistically like but it’s all I could fit in the weight limit. It’s a big, busy robot and I’m locked in to a lot of heavy choices. I regularly floated around the 1490-1550g range as I added and subtracted what I felt was needed.

The side wings should give me a little bit of a buffer to deflect opponents and the nylon ‘crushpad’ adds enough protection I’m happy to still have the battery there.

The aluminum jaw was a hard one to say goodbye to but it just became a folded metal albatross around my neck and I was having to sacrifice so much to keep it that I cut my losses and just made myself a printed part instead. The neck of the jaw is nylon with the tip being 1.2mm titanium I smashed out with a grinder hunched over the stairwell outside my flat. I wanted thicker titanium but that costs money and that scrap was in my empire of dirt for free.

I made a bit of a pigs ear of the design of the nylon component as the way I had it drawn, it put all the force right across the layer lines of the print so they split the first time I pinched anything. The picture above shows the revised version which was much thicker, printed with a higher infill and had these grub screws in acting as a threaded pin. Basically going at 45 degrees through the point of shear and individually fanning out by about 55 degrees from the pivot point.

I’m doing a lot more R&D at work now and so dug my heels in and managed to justify a few Bambulabs printers so I have been making use of them to pump out some little widgets while I work. A lightened wheel set is shown here - the big wheel is PLA and the small is ABS. I have redone the wheels to gain a couple grams back in weight but moreso to change the gearing.

I was intent on moving to 6s for more power but didn’t really need the speed that would come with a jump from 4s. I went from a 19t pinon to a 12t and brought the spur gear up accordingly so it would keep the same centre distance. Overall it’s now a little slower but the torque is through the roof. Plus there was a tiny bit of weight saved in the smaller pinion. I’m going to keep these orange tyres as a spare and can swap them back as spares if it comes to it.

As I mentioned I splurged and bought a 6s 380mah pack. Probably the lightest battery you could use at this voltage but in the Game Of Grams you win or you go overweight. It is not a huge increase but if you think it’s 50% over the 4s in width as well.

Naturally I remade the part it nests in. Combination battery mount an extreme structural member. It holds the bullheads together at the front too. The old style is on the right with barrel nuts made out of nylon. The captive skinny square nuts and slimline geometry of the new one meant it turned out stiffer and was only 4g heavier with the 6s as the old one was with the 4s

Now although I am a spoiled manbaby with the H2S’s at work I still love my ender 3 like a ginger stepchild and pumped out some lightened and Re-Goodened drive bullheads. I also dyed them. Can you tell?

Shout out to Rit dyes as when they put “Neon” on the bottle it’s jolly bloody neon. I did my usual trick of boiling the nylon post print but let them soak in the dye overnight and it’s impressively vibrant. Here you can see the changed pinion gear and get a better look at the armour mounting chunk (which I think also needs greenening)

You can also get a cheeky glimpse of the Fingertech switch that I’m happy to be running on Nipsey. There’s a strand of 30a fusewire coming off it so it’s easy to replace should it ever blow.

If we draw a veil over the front wheels being disgusting and orange still then that’s Nips fairly well buttoned up. I decided to dye the (revised again) jaw mounts and I think it looks pretty striking.

The black and white was pretty cool but I’m not a cool person so funky fresh green it is. It matches the light on the BBB ESC if nothing else.

The rear armour is ridiculously thin too, just being a 2mm sheet. Luckily there’s healthy air gaps everywhere and the expensive bit (repeat dual) has 12mm of nylon and an abs lid so fingers cross it doesn’t get mulched in its first fight… second or third I’m sort of game for it as that’s it’s working life over.

This is the bit that truly sparks joy. 1468g. Fantastic. This has been the hardest to manage and the most effort I have put in to controlling grammage and it’s been nice to keep adding ‘stuff’ to make it be the best nugget it can be and have it actually lighter than inferior versions.

I have some titanium rod to remake the shafts with to divot a few more grams out of the thing which might let me spring for 3mm HDPE on the arse. We shall see, truth be told it’s probably at the point I should leave well alone now.

It drives really nicely when you’re not knelt down, twanging the stick with your thumb and trying to film it at the same time. Even then since some dicking about with exponentials it’s pretty intuitive.

I need to do some general tweakage, perhaps remake the belts from thicker cord and make some more wheels. I only have 50a polyurethane at the moment as my 30a had made itself into a nightmare of hazchem snot. It doesn’t seem to flow as handily into the small moulds so I’ll need some syringes to lay it up properly. For once I have the time it seems! Watch me achieve none of this out of spite for myself.

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Continuing the trend of being absolutely spoiled I had a play with TPU on the Bumbo Lads I tricked my employer into buying.

Really using the most of the print bed, me. I just spammed the default settings with a load of walls and gyroid infill.

It just replaced the nylon one - slightly lighter and with a geometry tweak to push the nose into the floor a bit more so it’s floppy and ground scraping instead of just hangin’ in the breeze. It’s 90a so it’s definitely on the flexible side but it has to get under somebody, once. That’ll do pig.

Out of pure compulsion I am once again making wheels. I have this lovely fantasy where I can treat my robot like an RC touring car and change up my pinion and spur arrangement to best suit the track. Ahem, I mean arena. I have 3 “speeds” with the orange wheels being the fastest at 2(ish):1, the green tyres being the slowest at 4(ish):1 and these black tyre’d green nuggets being in between the two. It’s 3 bolts and two grubscrews to swap reduction on the fly - the front wheels can remain the same if I’m pushed for time.

Realistically I know I’m going to stick with the low gearing as I have the reaction times of a small, sad cabbage but I can’t stop buying 1/8 scale pinions to get free shipping on AliExpress Choice. It’s a problem without a solution.

I’ve had a curious little wibble with the brushed setup which has been speedily put to bed by BBB (which in this case stands for Big Brained Boyz) but it had me looking at other options for 11th hour patches to keep Nips on track for Champs.

Because I’m a roguish free spirit with a devil may care attitude I have the ESC mounted to the actuator and just joined to the rest of the robot with a 3 pin MR30 connector (signal and main battery power in) this opens up to be able to have things come out as a whole unit.

With the theme of using Wot I Got, I slapped together a 28mm 100:1 with a similarly diameter’d turnigy I have had kicking about for a good ten years.

So I dredged out another broken actuator from the depths of my parts bins and swiftly dumped all the parts that made it work like “gearboxes” and “motors”. Who needs em?

This is what it looks like when I’ve cut off everything I don’t want. The screw is trimmed off and a little shoulder ground on in an incredibly gonzo manner by spinning the shaft in a drill and freehanding an angle grinder. VERY cool and masculine.

Added some printed widgetry and it’s a lot of the way there. I’m wanting to go for a (nearly) 1:1 spur stage. Luckily as the output shaft is 6mm I can use a Ranglebox hub, printed gear then a pinion for 1/5 scale RC cars which has the 8mm for the actuator shaft.

Typically I can’t lay hands on my M18 tap so I can’t put the piston on yet. Don’t know how I’ve mislaid it, the faithful daily check has failed; '“phone, keys, wallet, watch and M18*1.5mm taper and plug tap”

As you can see it’s a cheaper, nastier affair with a printed bushing taking the place of the proper lovely (expensive) igus one. Luckily I ended up with two of the cnc’d endcaps so I am hoping to have it as a complete unit. One plug and a dozen bolts is all you need to swap them. Luckily I had a repeat single ESC so it’s happy with 6s!

And here was me thinking I was done…

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Work continued at a relatively stable pace as I nipped (har har) away at a lot of the little jobs.

The ESC mount and little side connectors got the standard dye job to spice up the colour palette.

It was pretty well on the way at this point - some might even say finished. They would be dead wrong as I had plenty more buggering about to perform but this was functionally complete enough to make this video: https://youtu.be/zDk7lApIbPQ?si=oku6sWsLCghTGUEr

I have an incredibly bad habit of ignoring cradles and locking bars right up until the night before so to break that particular naughtiness I drafted a printed version which gently holds the robot and whispers sweet nothings and affirmations in it’s ear. I was intending to line it with foam to give it a bit more holding power as it was a little slippery but the little tabs in the cradle itself stopped it from being able to slide off.

Naturally it had some subtle branding. I was going to use the multi coloured printing but that would have turned a 3 hour print into an 8 and burned a lot of material needlessly.

I was exceptionally busy in the direct lead up to champs which I wasn’t expecting so lots of the bigger jobs had to happen over the 2-3 days preceding it. One system that was getting attention was the brushless actuator I began in the last post. Throwing caution and best practice to the wind I redrew the gears and did a trial in PLA before moving on to CF nylon - which I was mostly using to see how it printed. It engages the lead screw via a cross pin like the stock gear and then has an endcap that bolts to the other side. I still am a fan of these little heat press inserts. So long as you have reasonable expectations for them it’s a great way of Making Thread Happen.

My main concern with the backup actuator (Bactuator?) was the gears being able to force themselves out of mesh as they are both poorly cantilevered and just take up resistance in the bad neighbourhoods of Shred City. To cure this I grabbed my container of random bearings and shook it upside down until something interesting fell out. I have a huge baggie of these thin profile 25mm bearings so made a housing around them and gave the gear models a 25mm plain portion.

This just lashes them together and stops the gears from being able to pull away from each other. It’s free floating, only axially retained by a printed endcap that goes on the non motor side.

Feels much better like this - though it’s a strange solution that a problem that shouldn’t exist. Now that I know I can print something rigid and strong enough I would do things differently. I would jettison the aluminium ‘bridge’ and make one out of CF nylon that has the geometry I want and a better PCD and I could properly put a transfer case together.

Now I’d had a myriad of issues with the actuator setup and I couldn’t quite see what the issue could be as the problem morphed somewhat.

I alluded to vague “troubles” previously but can narrow down the theory with only one bit not making good sense.

In my testing I had the jaw fail to ‘pick up’ and start moving under movement from the stick. Sometimes it would whine, sometimes it would go sluggishly but never very consistently. Using my absolute towering intellect I narrowed it down to the limit switches, the ESC and the motors. Yes by power of elimination, Facts and Logic I had diagnosed the problem was at least one part of a 3 part assembly with up to 3 possible options.

God I’m smart.

I was then thrown for a loop as the BBB esc just stopped arming. Different channels? Nada. Different receivers? Zilch. Prayers and candles? Ambient but unhelpful. With the full support of the BBB electronics arm I got hot shipped a replacement and given some things to try. Resetting the ESC with the handy dandy programmer was something I should have potentially already tried, but with my outdated 2010 era style of troubleshooting it got overlooked in the moment.

I had an ESC that would arm again! It still wasn’t happy moving but that was a third of the potential culprits discounted. The limit switches in their ad-hoc arrangement were next proved to be working fine. My sights fell on the motors.

Spoiler alert: it was the motors.

Small motors have small brushes and when you run them 100% above their maximum rating they can get a little sad. Pulling the ends off the RB-130’s I found the answers to my questions. Chunks of The Material Formerly Known As Carbon were spattered on the commutator which some sooty build up and general arc-ey glassy residue in strong attendance for a relatively tiny space.

My theoretical breakdown is with the higher voltage and the stalling, even current limiting wasn’t saving them and they were just becoming sad. This burning and coating of the com’s was making it hard to pick up and start the motor, it would just flood and current limit immediately - or make the other motor work harder to overcome.

This fits with why the motors worked on a battery as you could just dump current into it until Fetch Happened. I cleaned the coms up (thanks vintage RC car racing!) and the clouds lifted. It worked as it should - not wishing to run into a silly issue on the day I simply ordered and fitted two new RB130’s with the two OG’s being put into spares.

I took the opportunity to strip and re-grease the gearbox housing as I don’t think I took any pictures on the initial assembly. It is really painfully simple just using the stock pinions into an RC car spur gear. There is a little flanged 1/8” bore bearing pressed in from the rear and the rest of the assembly is just supported by the RC planetary gearbox. The housing is ABS and it still has those sinful heatpress inserts (which are still holding well!)

The two actuators side by side. Two very different approaches made many months apart. The second brushless one is honestly nicer despite its unbrilliant design, presumably because I knew what I was doing.

Amusingly and completely accidentally the two options are within 0.3g of each other! Couldn’t have done that if I tried. The brushless one is much more powerful from a gut feeling perspective and the fact there is no limiting involved. I was hesitant to put it in, despite it being the better option mostly because it didn’t have any endstops or anything to save itself electronically either.

I stuck with this guy as that’s really what the robot is all about, it was designed around this one and I should get some use out of it. It’s a lot more set and forget. Plan was to switch out to the brushless purely as a spare.

With all systems being go I tried out Mr Nips and got an awful lot of nothing - RX had just upped and died. Something must have shorted out somewhere - even the 4 for a tenner aliexpress bad boys I use aren’t that bad. Nothing was apparent but I did find it a little gruelling to have to take everything apart to get in and swap it for a new one and just check the Repeat Dual is still happy.

Gee golly I hope I don’t have to work on this under pressure at the event.

As a last minute addition I made myself a little ABS tophat washer which keeps the spur away from the switch wiring. Those of you with working eyes can see the first layer of heatshrink had been gently mulched over time. It just span on the existing nylon standoff.

Because I forget about features until the very end of the build I had to do something slightly oddball about my locking bar and sharp edge. I think making them into one is a pretty good way of doing things but Nips is a bit of an ugly duckling to retrofit to in hindsight. I keep kidding myself I’m getting better about it but it’s a very fundamental part of weapon design I always ignore and have to patch in as an afterthought. The blue plastic hooks in under the pivot point and folds to lock the jaw against the frame, then a 5mm pin (or Allen key) holds the whole lot solidly to the robot. To remove you pull the pin and slide the blue part up and out by pulling it upwards and away from the robot.

There is a knack to it that I had got by sitting and doing it multiple times but it’s not super intuitive for anyone getting their hands on it for the first time, like an arena marshal por ejemplo

But it was well and truly finished, for real this time. It had been an exceptionally long journey from December 2023 where I had the idea for Hard Nips stuck overnight in Schiphol Airport in a thunderstorm on a comedown. It has grown into its own weird little thing and I couldn’t be happier with what it turned out like.

Spanning 3 distinct redesigns across two CAD packages it took a lot to actually get this into the arena. I wasn’t married to the shape or the techniques, moreso using it as a vehicle to use a specific set of components in a way I thought was fun. This V3 wasn’t everything it could be, nor was it perfect but it existed. It had to get shoved out into the world or else it was just going to get stuck in a semi vaporous idle grave.

**Champs
**
First and last event of the year for me. It’s been a while since I have ventured out from my cave but it’s always worthwhile for BBB. I’d entered Hard Nips into an event last year but had to pull as it just wasn’t going finished or going to be very good. This time Nipzo was finished but was pretty far from being good.

My first fight was against EMP and Stasis (pictured above) which was a deceptively massive vertical spinner. Honestly there wasn’t an awful lot to tell, couldn’t get to grips with driving fast enough, made a mistake and got clipped in the rear.

The armour/dust cover suffered a critical existence failure when it got hit which launched me up, out and into the OOTA zone. it was torn in half and the wires were snipped which rendered the rest of the bot powerless. The panel was a write off but I could made a replacement on the fly. What was more concerning was going in and patching the wires back on the ESC. Basically the only part in the robot that I couldn’t really stomach replacing (because it wasn’t sub £10 on aliexpress) was a hard target.

@IrregularJoe was a regular gentleman and lent me a rather snazzy soldering iron and I got to work patching the loom back together. It was a slightly laborious process as you can see by my chaotic bench spread what I needed to take apart to get to the one area I needed to work on.

It was patched up with a 3mm HDPE plate bolted in place of the curved back panel with about 5 minutes to spare before it actually fought. I was putting the last couple holes in as I was summoned. Sunstroke is a dual horizontal spinner which I have been really loving from a novelty and appearance perspective.

That’ll teach me to be nice. Never again. Yes flattery falls rather deaf on robot ears and Sunstroke did an awful lot of damage to Nard Hips in an incredibly short amount of time. One knock, again on the rear which was offered up in a dreadful display of control just had disastrous knock on effects which left me dead in the water straight away.

Damage localised arseward and yet again the rear plate was pinged off, which left the wiring exposed. Everything got a nasty yank.

All 4 bulkheads are split through, two beyond patching. Both rear wheels were smashed at the hub, with the tyre material holding the left side together. The front right had been hit but kept intact by the polyurethane. The RH drive bulkhead just split and shattered which just caused it to lose all integrity. Same went for the RH central bulkhead where a combination of direct hits and the inserts being twisted and pulled out as the panels were ripped just gave up and delaminated.

It just was not good enough. It was done. While I did have spare drive bulkheads and wheels I couldn’t quite face the fact of patching it up again just to trundle in circles and continue to not be very good. There was no sensible way to armour up the rear with the central bulkheads smashed and patching the wiring loom again wasn’t on my good time funk n soul playlist.

There the day ended for myself and Hard Nips. Blown away by the standard of robots yet again as it just seems on the up and up. As I mentioned on the events post it is really incredible to see what the UK produces, not just in terms of robots but the events themselves. Huge respect to all concerned for giving us this space to play in.

Thoughts:

Shocked but not surprised is about where I am at with my performance with this robot. I know in my heart of hearts it’s not ever going to do very well just due to the increase in quality and dedication people have for their craft these days but I had higher hopes than I normally do and actually managed to fall shorter than my decidedly low performance average.

It wasn’t strong enough. Pure and simple, and a relatively easy one to sort out going forward. I have access to a lot more resources and machinery now than when I started out on the Nips journey and In the last ~6mo my design discipline is a heck of a lot stronger than it was when I was in the meat of this lad.

The printed nylon construction that has worked well for me for years was woeful. I think this is partially down to it being less forgiving with the part geometry on something like Nips compared to the small dense squares of MotherLoader or Klaus and the fact these were just printed badly. I’m not entirely certain what changed along the way but something certainly wasn’t up to scratch with the layer adhesion. The eSun nylon is generally pretty good at being flexible and impact resistant. These were not. Potentially fighting the weight and dropping the infill down didn’t help either. I think they had a thinner wall than previous parts too. Orientation was potentially something that needed greater attention also.

HDPE was just too thin or was mounted to something that wasn’t able to keep it together. As easy as they are, the screw in inserts contributed massively to the structural failure of the panels under impact. Barrel nuts are great but heavy. The captive square nuts in the battery mounting brace worked incredibly well and I want to pursue that further.

Driving and control needs a solid mention as that was pretty poor. Either nerves, focus or a lack of understanding on what to do just created a snowball of bad decisions. It was more of a bitter pill as this was the robot I have had by far and away the most driving practice with. I want to get it a bit more definite I think and stop trying to baby it about. I need to lock the wheelie problem down so I can better deal with trying to make the robot do, well, *something.
*
Maybe too I need to be a bit more active with things and try and just get more arena time or at least some sparing practice so I can breed familiarity with the process of driving a robot in combat. This year will have about 25 seconds of fight time for me - which is probably not helping things. I think it’s probably a wise move to push through a sportsman class or pub league first to just brute force a learning curve.

I felt really out of step coming away from this. It seems I have forgotten how to build robots, or have lost what little grip I had on what modern combat is like. It just felt like everyone was playing chess and I was having a hard time with connect 4. Hard to articulate but it just felt like I’d sort of pushed too far away from the goal and had truly forked off to the side. I try to balance entertaining myself with good end product but I had my finger on the scales and was pushing down hard in one direction. No prizes for guessing which.

I can normally pride myself on the robot being able to tank hits and keep electrically robust throughout most punishment - but this was just not happening here. I think too much wilful ignorance and “it’ll be all right” or “it’s not good but my hands are tied” happened and it plastered over fairly glaring flaws. It feels like another step back in performance which is concerning.

To end on a more positive note. I’m still happy with Nips as a concept for physically existing in spite of all odds. He’s an ugly duck but he’s mine and I love him.

Outside the competition the drive was fantastic. I think operator error killed any potential it has but it sure has legs (wheels) and I will be keeping that style going forward. It might be a weight distribution thing not helping either or traction. Honestly I need to sink those hours in to find out. PLA worked great for the gears but not so much for the cores. Will go back to ABS or go down another avenue entirely

The stance of the machine was great, I loved how it sat and the proportions were pretty lovely. It was probably one of the better looking machines I have made and I’ll be trying to keep that or work towards highlighting its best features in future.

6s was an excellent upgrade, even though it came with some carbon related challenges. It was like the first time I ran a FW spinner on 6s and had a lightbulb moment. I think it is the key for power going forward. The Repeat Dual was a trooper even though it went through the mincer more than any other individual component in any of my beetles. I hope it survived (I can’t check for a little while now) but I will be keeping that going forward.

In terms of my organisation around the machine during the build and refinement process I can say I really nailed down the Minimum Viable Product as from very early days I had it sat at the 85% complete mark. I was able to sign up for a competition with a robot that was pretty much ready to go, submit POM the same day and just focus on tweakage in the interim weeks. This was pretty wasted in hindsight as the avenues I took to improve did not help in the slightest as the core flaws in the jaws were too great to be improved by brackets, widgets and a spare actuator. If I didn’t explode my washing machine, lock both the robot and my tools in a shipping container over a weekend and waste two evenings seeing Tron: Ares (Yes, twice. Once on opening night and then a second time a few days later to make sure I didn’t like it) I may have been able to run a bit more driving practice but again, I don’t think that would have helped me overcome the intrinsic rubbishness.

I think the development going forward will push for a smaller, tougher nips using the same overall style and theme but much, much better construction and engineering thought behind it. I’m fizzing with ideas currently but I’ll let the dust settle a while and keep a few plates spinning as I have a backlog of other robot jobs I desperately need to finish and get out the door.

All that I can say is it can’t get any worse.

Harder, Nippier.

5 Likes

Gently caressing it until soft nips becomes Hard Nips?

It’s a really beautiful robot, and even my little antweight crusher (with its gearbox entirely outsourced to some random Chinese servo factory) has given me an appreciation for how damn hard it is to just get a crusher in weight and into the arena, so it hurt to see it knocked out so quickly by robots going for the soft and supple backside, but such is robot combat. Glad my slightly ropey little soldering iron held up long enough to get it back into the action a second time at least.

Hope to see it back soon, and fingers crossed we get to see it give someone a nip piercing.

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Hello fellow angry build logger this was a wonderfully entertaining read and I am fast coming to the conclusion that we are in fact kindred spirits.

Some lovely work on show and real rolling with the punches and adapting on the fly. Love hard nips… and the robot is pretty good too

4 Likes

Through spite, all things are possible. Speaking of;

I’m actually quite angry now over Yodel being fantastically impotent at actually delivering a parcel of AliExpress goodies. Basically they need my door code, sender didn’t include it so Yodel can’t let me add it and send me to AliExpress and AliExpress just push me back to Yodel.

I’ve lost the last two Choice parcels like this and although I’m refunded it basically means I just can’t order from AliExpress anymore because they’ve picked a useless courier for the last step. It can cross oceans but falls short because of a four digit code.

I’m an old angry man and this is the cloud I’m choosing to shout at.

Basically I had my long list of gripes and wibbles from Nipso Primo that were mostly self evident so I won’t keep retreading the same ground like some industrial boot testing machine.

I went on a slightly ancillary mission to sort the drive. I really enjoyed how the gears worked and did not enjoy how the belts left the front under driven. Through some Kwik Mafz and a bit of AliExpress abuse (which now may be somewhat delayed!) I spammed out a corresponding gear train that drives the front wheel.

Everything was a bit of a faff but it worked out pretty nicely in the end - playing fast and loose with the pitches. It starts out 0.6Mod transitioning to 1.0 at the back and 0.8Mod at the front.

I’m not longer making the gears and hubs one part. Separate nylon gears and a squishy TPU hub to stop impacts knocking out the whole lot. Notice a 28mm planetary and a 2836 just lounging around in the background. Draw your own conclusions with that one, potentially in crayon.

So, when I grow up I want to be 2010 era Charles Guan. I’m trying a ghetto version of the T nut theory with the main thinking behind it meaning no supports when printed down flat. The old parts failed around holes (moreso down to print quality) and my inserts ripped out

These have “half” holes so there isn’t an overhang and because each panel is opposed or mirrored you’re (theoretically) not going to have it slip off sideways. It can’t be any worse than what I did previously and it’s so much lighter.

It’s an awful lot smaller now, with the COG slammed right down and everything pinched in tight. The chassis rails are all 8mm now too. Basically really trying to push boundaries and be confident in my ability to work on awkward things in order to gain back weight in order to actually have armour.

Told you I made it smaller, that’s an M4 bolt…

I digress, yes I’ve joined the filthy hordes of Builders What Do It Properly and gone for a TPU wraparound affair. It’s sort of a poor, blind, rheumatic rendition of Ellis or Andy’s style. Maybe more a Temu Team Immersion commission. I figure it’ll at least let me box rush with relative impunity once or twice.

Keeping the momentum up on the Potato-typing front I lashed up a knuckle and started rejigging my actuator. It’s using the best parts of the old actuators (well, one part, singular!) and the rest is a bit of a reckless application of barely understood engineering principles.

It’s a semi over-constrained stack up of transmission components with structural printing, RC car pinions and Chinese electronics. Yada yada, It’s exactly like everything else I’ve ever built, you get the picture. I’m looking forward to documenting and testing that WHEN HELL FREEZES OVER AND YODEL GIVES ME MY STUFF. PLEASE.

In the meantime you can get that picture as a teaser to try and fill in the blanks yourself. The earphone is a red herring, just gently playing Type O Negative in order to give nylon better layer adhesion.

Little bit of a jump again but I’m trying to push this concept hard while I still have the inclination and freshness on the boil. TPU forky wagglers (technical term) are on the sides and a waggly forker (local insult) pivots at the front.

The rubbery appendages have a little bit of sweaty tryhardiness about them, they have a little magnet slot, just to shift the load a little off the shoulders of my ole pal Gravity and give it some pull. These will be potted in with some epoxy, polyurethane, chewing gum, njdua paste - whatever is closest to hand but still yields some compliance.

Still very early days but as February will come round quick I thought I’d beat get a move on while the wounds are still fresh.

Till next time space fans.

8 Likes

Out of all the things that could’ve gotten me to finally come out from lurking I never thought it would be a mutual burning hatred for Yodel. Yodel is, hands down, the worst delivery company in the UK. No joke I had something delivered by them a few years back that they just dumped on my neighbour’s lawn out in the open for anybody to grab. Terrible company.

Really intrigued by the idea of using dye to colour printed parts. Hard Nips really stood out to me while watching the championships because the green was that intense and I’m tempted to try it once I get my hands on a 3D printer. How well does TPU take Rit’s dyes?

Today’s update: they were going to redeliver after one (1) previous attempt and I was on my 5th agent to try and get notes added. They said they couldn’t add a note but would add driver feedback which contained my door code and instructions to please, please ring me. The agent said I’d get a confirmation email…

About an hour later I got a confirmation that my order was going to be returned to sender. No 2nd attempt.

Cross doesn’t start to cover it. So I’m basically just unable to receive stuff from AliExpress anymore which just puts a massive damper on me doing *anything” and kicks about 2 weeks of delay onto parts that game within 6 foot of my front door.

Lead screw, bearings, gears and all sorts are just going into parcel purgatory/landfill. Disgusting.

Killed any momentum I had for this project.

To my knowledge clear TPU will take dye pretty well, though won’t always end up as vibrant as nylon. One of the many benefits of TPU is the colour variety it comes in so it’s probably an easier option to just buy some in the desired colour. I don’t think it gets the same mechanical properties from being “wet” like nylon does either

1 Like