I print 5.6-5.7mm hex sockets in the chassis to hold the nuts in place on the end. (this is what I use for Hercules’ axles with Nyloc Nuts)
nyloc nuts mean they don’t unscrew
5.6-5.7mm hex sockets
noted!
Okay so I preperation for jan grocs, where no big dill (and me) will fight spinners for the first time, I was wandering, what is an ideal thickness for the shell/chassis/lid on the design? I have seen a few nasty spinners that look like they could rip my bot to shreds. Please help! I’m pretty sure I’ve asked this before but I can’t find the post. I’m using overture super pla plus btw.
I use 1mm walls in ABS, with 2mm walls in strategic locations, but I’m prepared to swap chassis in a hurry between fights.
given your forks and blades as replaceable armour then I think you’re probably gonna be ok.
if things break, then that’s the bit to re-enforce.
Currently the chassis is running 2.5mm overture super pla plus. The tpu wedges are also 2.5 approx. The forks are 5mm thick (i think). Is this okay?
All my ants run the default Bambu standard print profile, which is 2 walls with my 0.4mm nozzle - 1.6mm total plastic between the inside and the outside world (plus a few percent infill). It’s rare that anyone actually gets through both the inner and outer walls and into the soft gooey centre; usually either a big chunk flakes off the outside, or the opponent’s weapon digs in and my robot flies away (usually into the pit or OOTA).
There’s exceptions and unlucky hits, but in general you won’t take huge damage fighting antweight spinners - the physics scale such that the plastic is usually strong enough to take the hit, flake and split a little but stay together, and send the bot flying instead. In a lot of the really destructive “guts everywhere” fights you see, the explodee is usually in one piece but has just lost a top plate!
As Ben says, you have lots of forks and attachments sticking out the front of your robot. As long as you’re ok with them getting progressively shorter and shorter as the fight goes on, you’ll be fine!
Thank you Ben and Joe for the comments, I feel a lot better going into grocs now.
How can I change the bot/transmitter to reduce oversteer when driving?
Thanks so much everyone
Hollis
go to DR/EXP in functions setup, reduce dual rate.
And now I present to you…
NO BIG DILL V4:
It took a bit longer to assemble as expected due to being 2g overweight but I’ve made some minor adjustments and it now sits at 149g on the dot with the heaviest setup attached (wedge setup pictured above). There is a few screws that are a bit long so I could attach them but I can’t really be bothered to go through the hassle of taking off the motor mounts then attaching them again with new screws. For now I will just hope Ben G’s scale is reading the same as mine…
Anyway I just wanted to ask, the lid is a bit thin on NBD I think 2mm. Obviously if you managed to read the paragraph above without falling asleep, you will know that I don’t really have the weight to thiken it/ add metal plates. So I was thinking, if I faced a hammer saw at the upcoming GRoCS that I could just run one tpu fork on each side and screw on a extra 2mm of a plastic on the lid with some plastite screws. So my question, what plastic do I use? Really my only options I have available are tpu, overture super pla+ and I also have some sheets of polycarbonate from bbb.
Thanks for reading,
Hollis
Hi,
If the alternate configuration still fits in the box and is in weight then you’re fine to swap parts.
Obv. if you swapped a hammer saw for a plants fight that wouldn’t be sporting… 
Hi, Guido runs a 1mm lid. Shouldn’t be a problem as hammers that can do damage are pretty rare.
Quick update,
GRoCS happened and, spoiler alert: I didn’t do terrible!
Plant nbd (nbd v3) went 4-1 in groups and got through to top 4. It then lost semis but managed to get a lucky win in the 3rd place playoff when pstfu’s switch got turned off by a dent in the floor (or maybe it was me, who knows?) So essentially I cooked in plants with a tied best ever result of 3rd (also got 3rd at CAT4)
Here is the annoying part,
EVERY FULL COMBAT FIGHT I HAD WAS AGAINST A VERT
fortunately though most of them bounced around a lot and eventually went OOTA, big relief 
. So nbd went 3-1 overall with one bye in the group. Unfortunately it lost its quarter final matchup against phoenix’s vert, caustic.
So overall I’m quite happy with the result. The lifter arm on fc nbd got split in half quite a lot but I won’t change it, For reasons that will be explained in future topic….
Thanks all
Quick update,
I did change it:
before
and after.
I mostly just made the sides thicker (where it was breaking)
BUT…
My big worry now is, well, have a look for yourself….
I could make the main body smaller, but I might just hope that Bens scales will be nice to me at GRoCS. It may weigh slightly less as I don’t think I’ll run the wedges at GRoCS due to the fact that this NBD will be entering plants in march. It’ll be making way for a new robot that I will reveal
Hollis
I’m sure you could easily remove a gram from somewhere. Even by hand with a scalpel maybe.
