yeah i have a titanium version of the same bar thankfully! i think its about 7 grams lighter? might have to switch to that one
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yeah ive still been using the BBB ESC just because its quite easy for me to solder up and i’ve had no real issues with using them in the past
Ah, you’re at the “Oh come ON what do you MEAN I’ve only shaved off one gram?!?!?!?!?” stage too. I’m going to second the Malenki Nano. They aren’t that scary to solder and if I can get one to work despite my lack of skill I think almost anybody can!
What size wires are you using? If you go for smaller ones that are still safe to use with spinner ants it could save you a couple of grams too!
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yeahhh ive saved a lot of weight on redesigning the body but i’m just not there yet haha.
I’ve been taking a look at it since Hollis suggested it earlier and i might consider it tbh, since that would already be at least 7 grams saved alone.
I’m a little confused on the wiring setuo though, does the black wire on a spinner esc not need to be soldered to anything? i’m assuming thats what is illustrated on the graph
other than that im planning on trying to save a little more weight on the body too, since id like to finally give this robot some polycarbonate weapon mounts instead of ABS, or at the very least add attachable polycarbonate forks.
Correct, that’s the ground for the signal. Sometimes (in a drone or RC plane or whatever) you might have the receiver and ESCs running from different batteries, so the ESC needs a separate ground to connect the two systems and provide a reference for the signal. In a robot we run everything off the same battery, so usually you can get away without the black signal wire.
You should be able to save some weight with a re-wire. I like to use 26awg PVC insulated wire for drive motors, it’s more than enough to handle the current and a lot lighter than 24awg silicone wire. 24awg silicone wire should do for the main power and motor wires. I also do away with all the connectors except the battery connector, and reduce the lengths as much as possible.
Another thing you can do is downsize all your screws, although that might be a pain if you don’t have a printer and have already ordered parts for specific screw sizes. M2 self tappers are enough to hold plastic parts together at ant scale, and often four M2s will do better than one M3 and still weigh less.
Finally, if all else fails it’s speed hole time!
Ahh, okay noted! that makes a lot of sense. I’ll keep that in mind, i might go for it for this robot at the very least then since i need the weight for other upgrades i have in mind too!!
I think all my Screws are pretty downsized at the minute, i’ve been running M2 screws for a very long time now
hopefully won’t need Speedholes! Will order a Malenki Nano when i get home and take some more weight out of the body, hopefully thatll be enough to save weight (and maybe even get myself some polycarbonate weapon mounts)
Thanks for the advice, i appreciate it!!!
Howdy peeps! its small update time!!!
The Malenki Nano’s have arrived! I ordered two, one for Somatic Damage and the other for a mystery robot that ill be showcasing soon!
For now, heres an update on the new version of Somatic Damage!
Just wanted to show it off, i really like how the bot looks now!! And in terms of weight…
It’s just 9.4 grams overweight! which is already an insane jump from the 16 grams ot was before. I have another redesign of the body currently on the way, in addition to possibly changing to a titanium weapon bar too! I’m saving extra weight for another awesome upgrade i mentioned in the form of polycarbonate supports 
was thinking of going for 2mm thick, is that adequite for this weight class?
That’s all i have now pretty much, will post another update when everything else arrives!!!
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Great work.
I reckon an updated body and a titanium blade will get you under 150 so you are in a good spot.
I haven’t worked with polycarbonate yet so unfortunately I can’t provide any advice there.
Keep up the good work.
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thank you! i appreciate it. Should be quite an easy swap since i already have the same bar in Titanium anyways!
Hoping to get it ready in time for the next GroCs event, so should be quite fun!
Is that CNC or printed polycarbonate? I have no experience with 3D printed polycarbonate, but I have worked with it in sheet form. 2mm should be fine structurally, but it is quite heavy. If you’re struggling with weight and getting parts CNCed it might be worth looking at carbon fibre.
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was hoping for cut as i’m unsure how good 3d printed polycarbonate is… i might just get the forks alone cut in polycarbonate and screw them in with the weapon mounts, at least then if the forks are damaged i don’t have to replace the entire weapon mount, as swapping those out are quite tedious…
will have to see how much free space i have first though! hoping to get all the new 3d printed stuff soon
Honestly might be more worth getting them printed from TPU.
TPU bricks can withstand nearly anything at this scale, case in point, Marie Antoniette.
85g, yet can hold its ground against the strongest spinners.
I would do TPU, but im quite skeptical about wether or not the forks would have a nice, sharp edge on them or not, since the forks i have now tend to be quite dull at the tips. Might try and just get polycarb forks rather than replacing the whole motor mount, soulds like a safer use of weight
TPU Forks are used on SVRN kits, and have proven great for ground clearance. I use them on Y2K and they have proven great.
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ah okay, will keep that in mind then depending on how much weight ive got! thank you for the advice
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Ots time for another update! all the 3d printed gubbins came in the post today, so heres a comparison aswell as a look at where things are at now!
The leap down in weight on these top plates is insane, surprised at how much has been shaved off…
The weighr saved in the body of the bot is very helpful, but there are worries that i will get to later in the thread
this last part i have reprinted in ABS in case it was ABSOLUTELY NECCESSARY. it has not been needed but its crazy how much of a difference in weight there is!
So… where does Somatic Damage come in now, especially given next week is going to be event day? good question!
Somatic Damage SOMEHOW comes in 12g under the weight limit after all the changes ive made… this does come with a few small worries. I have thinned out some sections in the design that have never ended up taking any damage, bottom and top of the robot mainly. I know hammersaws are obviously going to have a field day with this bot, however first they actually have to get to the top plates, so i’m hoping good enough driving will be able to ward them away. Besides… i don’t think the old top plates wouldve worked any better wonders anyways
I am noticing some flex in the body of the bot. Now, there has always been flex in the design of Somatic Damage, its just a lot more noticable now and i would prefer if the motor mount support on the other side isn’t able to split off… Now thankfully i can just get a nut to screw into the otherside of the motor mount, easy fix especially when theres so much weight to play with
Last issue is the forks at the front are so pooey, they are unlikely to do much help, but that comes with a fix thats going to be very helpful to Somatic Damage’s hopes at GrocS. As i’ve been saying, ive been trying to lower the weight as much as i can, to invest in some Polycarbonate forks to stop them being snapped off, i’m currently waiting for those to be cut and shipped via PCBway, in hindsight i probably could make these pieces myself (which makes a change to everything else on this robot) but oh well… anyways, should have some beautiful new forks thatll actually stay on after being hit soon! can’t wait for that!!!
thats all for this time, can’t wait to have this thing driving and spinning soon!
I think for hammersaws you will be alright because they aren’t really that common. What I do is print out a few plates of you and just screw them on the lid if I really have to.
Great job. This really is starting to look like a comp winning robot.
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thank you very much! yeah you have a point i’ve never really came across any in my time fighting luckily, But i’d like to imagine my driving would be a good enough counter in the event i do have to fight one anyways!
And i appreciate the kind words, i’m really liking how this new version is looking! looks more stylish than it used to before! maybe having your robot smashed up isn’t so bad afterall…
If you’re really that concerned about hammersaws, make a configuration with a thin and tall front wall to stick on the front of your robot to stop the hammer part of the hammersaw, or make a top plate that resembles a toothbrush to do similar.
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noted, thank you!
i’m not too worried honestly. I know they tend to throw a bit of a spanner in the works because you don’t tend to expect them, but i’d like to imagine i won’t have too much trouble! will see how much this weighs when its assembled before i do anything else, can’t wait to wire it all up tomorrow
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